Kabinett is the Mosel’s greatest trick: a wine under 10% alcohol that tastes gently sweet and yet finishes utterly refreshing. Selbach-Oster draws this one mostly from the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr, the steep blue-slate sundial slope that is about as good as Mosel real estate gets, and ferments it naturally in old Fuder, the big neutral casks the region has leaned on for generations. The Selbachs have been doing this in Zeltingen for something like 400 years; they are not experimenting. The result is a wine you can open on a Tuesday night without a second thought, or forget in the back of a cellar for fifteen years. Chill it hard and pour.