If your idea of Pinot Grigio is the watery, neutral stuff from the lowlands, this will be a revelation. Colterenzio farms its PG up in the cooler hills around Appiano, on gravelly limestone soils between 350 and 400 meters, where big diurnal swings keep the grapes crunchy and aromatic. Fermented and aged in stainless on fine lees, the wine is pale, fragrant, and far more interesting than its category usually allows: citrus and white peach, melon, a brush of wild herbs, and a stony, mineral finish. It’s the kind of Pinot Grigio that reminds you why people fell in love with the grape in the first place.