A serious dry white Bordeaux hiding inside a Sauternes vineyard. Clos des Lunes is the project that Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier launched in 2011, when he took over a 45-hectare vineyard in the Sauternes appellation and decided to make great dry white wine from it instead. Lune d’Argent is the heart of the range: 70% Semillon, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, fermented with a touch of oak. The 2017 has the texture and weight you’d expect from old Semillon vines on Sauternes soils, but it’s built around freshness white peach, citrus, beeswax and it’s drinking beautifully now, with the kind of mid-palate depth that makes Pessac and Sauternes whites world-class.