Hofgut Falkenstein is one of the Saar’s most beloved addresses. Erich Weber and his son Johannes farm about 13 hectares of old Riesling vines close to organic, with low yields and ambient-yeast fermentations in traditional 1,000-liter Fuder casks. They neither chaptalize nor de-acidify, and bottle straight off the gross lees, cask by cask. The Krettnacher Altenberg Spatlese Trocken is usually the driest wine in the lineup, an unapologetically bracing Saar Riesling for purists who like their wine pleasantly astringent and razor-sharp. The 2024 is floral and stony, with white peach lift and a long, herbal, salty finish. Bring on the oysters.