Aligote is Burgundy’s other white grape, the one growers historically stuck in the spots where Chardonnay wouldn’t pay, and it has since become a quiet obsession for a certain kind of drinker. Terah Bajjalieh, a Bay Area winemaker and sommelier, grows hers in San Benito County and makes it the way she makes everything: organically farmed fruit, low-intervention cellar work, nothing that gets between the site and the glass. The result is light, lean, and bright, all citrus zest and yellow apple, with no interest whatsoever in weight. It’s the kind of white that disappears from the table faster than you planned for.