Fausto and Cinzia Cellario are third-generation winemakers in Carru, on the western edge of the Langhe, and they’ve made a career of championing the indigenous grapes other Piedmontese growers have abandoned. This Acacia bianco is blended from Timorasso (the once-lost local white the region is happily rediscovering) and Rossese Bianco (rarer still), and it’s aged for six to eight months in barrels made of acacia wood rather than oak a choice that lends a different kind of warmth, more floral and honeyed than toasty. The result is a textured, mineral white with real personality and a lot of character to chew on.