Christine and Gilles Berlioz farm one of the great addresses in Savoie, working biodynamically on the steep slopes around Chignin. Bergeron is the local name for Roussanne, and the Berlioz versions are among the references for the grape anywhere in France. Les Filles, named in tribute to the women of the domaine, comes from a south-facing parcel with deeper topsoil, so it is the rounder and more textural of their two cuves, all dense apricot and stone fruit shot through with the natural acidity that mountain altitude brings. 2018 was a warm vintage, but Berlioz never loses the line. Drinking beautifully now.