In Gallura, the vines grow in decomposed granite and the sea is never far away, and you can taste both in this wine. Branu is Vigne Surrau’s freshest expression of Vermentino: stainless steel start to finish, no oak, bottled early to keep every bit of its snap. The name comes from a Sardinian word for spring, which is exactly the season it evokes. This is the bottle you open without ceremony, on a warm evening, ideally with something that came out of the ocean that morning. Sardinia’s great white grape, uncomplicated and completely convincing.