This was the first one. 2021 marked the debut of Selbach-Oster’s Alte Reben trocken, a dry Riesling built entirely from the estate’s oldest vines in Zeltingen. Johannes Selbach and his son Sebastian aged it in the classic big Mosel foudres and left it on the lees until nearly the following harvest a slow way to make a wine, and the only way to get this texture. 2021 was a cool, sharply drawn vintage on the river, so this leans taut and mineral rather than plush. Old vines, old wood, a cold year: it adds up to a dry Riesling with real grip, and four years on it’s just beginning to open.