Preston is a farm that happens to make wine, not the other way around. Lou and Susan Preston bought a prune orchard in Dry Creek Valley in 1973 and turned it into one of Sonoma’s quiet institutions certified organic since 2002, with olive oil, sourdough and vegetables coming off the same land. The Sauvignon Blanc is entirely estate-grown and fermented with native yeast, which is why it tastes like a place rather than a formula: citrus oil and lemongrass, cut grass and wild herbs, and none of the aggressive tropical stuff. Restraint, from people who have nothing left to prove.