Paolo Bea is an Umbrian superstar and one of the founding fathers of Italy’s natural wine movement, an uncompromisingly old-school estate where Giampiero Bea farms healthily and ages the wines patiently with minimal intervention. Rosso de Veo is drawn largely from the estate’s younger Sagrantino vines on the Cerrete site, the highest point in Montefalco, and vinified much like the flagship Sagrantino, with a long 40-to-50-day maceration and years in steel, big oak, and bottle. It carries Sagrantino’s wild power and grip but in a slightly more accessible frame. A great way to meet this legendary, deeply tannic grape. This is the 2019.