Dario Serrentino farms in the Val di Noto, the southeastern corner of Sicily that sits at roughly the same latitude as North Africa: chalky limestone, relentless sun, and the Ionian Sea a few kilometers off. Cala Iancu is his white mostly Grillo with a bit of Catarratto, given a single night on the skins, fermented spontaneously in steel, and bottled with barely any sulfur. It tastes like the place it comes from: citrus, sea spray, white flowers and a salty, stony bite. Serrentino is one of the newer members of Sicily’s artisanal movement, and wines like this are why that movement keeps getting more interesting.