White Chateauneuf is one of wine’s great overlooked pleasures, and M5 White is Santa Barbara’s version of the idea. Doug Margerum grafted his Los Olivos District estate over to Rhone varieties in 2016, and the name is exactly what it sounds like: M for Margerum, 5 for the five grapes. Marsanne and Roussanne bring the weight, Grenache Blanc and Picpoul keep it honest, and a splash of Viognier handles the perfume. With a few years behind it, the 2021 has settled into something broad and textural rather than merely fruity. A big-boned white for people who have grown tired of Chardonnay.