La Raia is a Demeter-certified biodynamic estate in the hills of Gavi, in southern Piedmont, owned by the Rossi Cairo family since 2002. “Pleo” is their classic Gavi, 100% Cortese farmed without chemicals, a textbook expression of the grape: crisp, saline and clean. This is the kind of bright, mineral white that makes Gavi the go-to with seafood. Serve it cold.