Meursault is not where anyone goes looking for a bargain, which is exactly what makes Jean-Philippe Fichet’s Bourgogne Blanc worth knowing. Fichet works a small collection of parcels around Meursault – every one of them under a hectare – and the vines behind his Bourgogne Blanc run roughly 47 to 80 years old. This is the vieilles vignes bottling, and Fichet’s entire project is purity: patient farming, native-yeast fermentation, old barrels, nothing flashy anywhere. The wine is precise and tightly focused, with the kind of definition you’d expect from a bottle wearing a village name. His nephew Theo now works alongside him, so the style is in good hands. These wines deserve to be better known than they are; buy them while they’re still under the radar.