Hofgut Falkenstein is Erich Weber’s beloved Saar estate, now a father-son project with his son Johannes. They farm old Riesling vines close to organic in a quiet side valley known as the Talchen, ferment with ambient yeast in traditional 1,000-liter Fuder casks, and bottle straight off the gross lees, cask by cask, with no chaptalization or de-acidification. This dry Kabinett from the south-facing Niedermenniger Herrenberg site is featherweight in alcohol but anything but timid, a chilly, stony, vibrating Saar Riesling that finishes long, lean and crackling. One of the most refreshing dry whites in the shop.