From Romain Guiberteau, the Clos Rougeard-trained star of Saumur, Le Bourg is a single 1.07-hectare parcel just below Clos des Carmes on the hill of Brez, planted to Chenin in the early 1940s on sandy clay over soft limestone. Organic, ambient-yeast fermented and aged about a year in used barrels, it is Guiberteau’s old-vine expression of the great Brez terroir, more open and aromatic than the Carmes, no less serious. The 2022 in magnum will reward patience and a great table. This format begs to be opened for a Sunday lunch that runs long.