The domaine that owns a sliver of Le Montrachet also makes Aligote, and does not treat it as a side project. These vines went into the ground in 1956 and 1963 seriously old for a grape most of Burgundy planted only where Chardonnay refused to ripen and Ramonet gives the wine the same traditional cellar handling as everything else in the house. The result is Aligote with actual flesh on it: still bracing, still capable of a Kir if you insist, but with a texture and depth most examples never find. It is the most accessible way into one of white Burgundy’s great addresses, and it does not taste like a compromise.