Gilles and Christine Berlioz are biodynamic pioneers on the steep slopes of Chignin, and their two Chignin-Bergeron cuves (Bergeron is Savoie’s name for Roussanne) trade off as a study in terroir. Les Fripons (the rascals) comes from an east-facing neighbour to Les Filles, where the vines drive into the bedrock with almost no topsoil to speak of. The result is leaner and saltier than its sibling: lower alcohol, more salivating bitter herbs, and a snap of saline acidity that makes you reach for another sip. The 2017 has settled into a beautifully savory, mineral place.