Chevalier-Montrachet from Michel Niellon is one of Burgundy’s true unicorns. The Chassagne-based domaine farms only a sliver of this hallowed Grand Cru, and bottles are counted in the handful each year. The 2020 is a warm-vintage Chevalier with serious concentration, fermented in barrel with measured new oak and raised on its lees in classical Niellon style: precise, restrained, never showy. Confit citrus, pear, hazelnut and white flowers fold into a saline, mineral finish that just keeps going. A wine to cellar deep into the next decade.