The name means “cuvee of chance,” and that’s exactly the spirit here. At Domaine Labet, the Rotalier-based family that helped rewrite the rules for modern Jura whites, this Chardonnay gets the old-school treatment: aged roughly six years in old barrels under a veil of yeast (the N2 is the extra-long sous-voile bottling) (the same flor that gives Vin Jaune its magic), without topping up the barrels. The result is a white that trades freshness for depth, picking up notes of toasted nuts, dried orchard fruit, and a savory, almost briny tang. This is a Jura geek’s wine, built for the long haul and best with food and a little patience.