If you care about Vouvray, you already know the name. Philippe Foreau, the third-generation proprietor of Clos Naudin, is one of the great traditional Chenin Blanc producers in the world full stop. His wines are made with religious precision from old vines planted on the tuffeau limestone above the Loire, and they age for decades. The Sec is the dry expression, but “dry” hardly does it justice: it’s a wine of stunning intensity, with quince, beeswax, wet stone, and a saline mineral edge that goes on and on. 2020 was a warm but balanced vintage in Vouvray. A wine to know.