Savagnin without the sherry act. Most drinkers meet the Jura’s signature white grape in its oxidative, sous-voile form — nutty, briny, an acquired taste. Les Molates is the opposite: Marnes Blanches raises it ouille, topping up the barrels for 22 months so oxygen never gets a foothold, and what comes out is a bright, high-tension white full of pear, citrus and a salty snap. Pauline and Geraud Fromont farm organically and keep the cellar hands-off, and 2023’s generous growing season gave the wine some flesh to go with its energy. It is the easiest possible entry point into a grape plenty of people are needlessly scared of.