Muscadet at its most intellectually stimulating. Chteau Thbaud is one of the newly minted Cru Communaux of Muscadet Svre-et-Maine, and Domaine de la Ppire’s bottling pulls from old vines rooted in the distinctive granite de Thbaud soils, threaded with veins of metamorphic gneiss. Marc Ollivier set the benchmark for serious Muscadet over three decades here (he retired after the 2019 vintage); the reins now sit with Rmi Branger and Gwnalle Croix, who farm biodynamically and press directly with extended lees aging. The 2022 is tense and bright, beautifully defined, built to age like a fine Chablis but with more storm and smoke. Open it tonight or stash it for a decade.