Domaine Bernard Gripa, run by Bernard and his son Fabrice from the village of Mauves, is a benchmark address for Saint-Joseph in the Northern Rhone. Their white is mostly Marsanne with a splash of Roussanne, grown on granite, and it’s a great argument for why these grapes deserve more attention. Partial barrel aging gives it texture and a touch of richness without tipping into heaviness. Look for orchard fruit, white flowers and a savory, almost nutty depth, all kept honest by a saline freshness. A 2019 with a few years on it now, drinking beautifully.