Deru is the project of Caleb Taft, a longtime SF Bay Area wine and restaurant veteran (Camino, Nopa, Nari) who decamped to Washington to make honest, soulful wines the natural way. This dry Riesling comes from the Naches Heights AVA, a young, high-elevation growing area on million-year-old andesite bedrock above the Yakima Valley cooler and wetter than most of Washington wine country, and a genuine sweet spot for Riesling. The wine is bone dry, all electricity and stone, with citrus, green apple, and that characteristic Naches Heights mineral grip. If you’ve been bored by sweet-leaning American Riesling, this is the bottle to pour.