Daniel Bouland made his name on brooding, ancient-vine Gamay in Morgon, so it’s easy to forget he makes any white at all. This tiny, almost confidential cuvee of Chardonnay is the exception, grown on clay and limestone rather than his famous granite and farmed by the same relentless, all-by-hand organic approach he brings to his reds (certified since 2012). The result is a friendly, unfussy white: round orchard fruit, a little herbal lift, easy to drink and easy to love. If you’ve only met Bouland through his Gamay, this is a fun way to shake his other hand.