Bodegas Roda built its reputation on serious, modern Rioja reds so when they finally released a white, they did it the Roda way. Roda I Blanco comes from old, high-altitude bush vines clinging to eroded sandstone and chalk near the winery, mostly Viura with a little Malvasa and Garnacha Blanca. Fermented in French oak and aged on its lees, it’s a white built for the table and the cellar, not for chugging on the patio. Think honeyed orchard fruit wrapped around a stony, mineral core.