A rare still white from Champagne, made by one of the region’s most precise growers from the grand cru village of Ay, a place far better known for powerful Pinot Noir in sparkling wine. Bereche turns the convention on its head here, bottling Chardonnay as a still Coteaux Champenois that shows off Ay’s chalk in a whole new light. Brothers Raphael and Vincent farm their parcels meticulously and chase site expression above all else. The result is taut and saline, with white peach, pear skin, citrus oil, and acacia blossom riding a current of chalky tension. A fascinating, almost unicorn bottle for anyone who loves Champagne but rarely gets to taste it still.