Cortese is the grape behind Gavi, in Piedmont which makes finding it in the Sacramento Delta a small act of geographic mischief. Lost Slough sits in Clarksburg, where river water and afternoon Delta breezes keep the clay soils cool, and Young Inglewood’s VENN label bottles the fruit with almost nothing done to it: native yeast, stainless steel, no oak, nothing to blur the picture. What comes out is taut and citrusy, with the salty, brisk edge that makes Cortese such a good aperitif grape in the first place. VENN exists to make wines that are easy to find on a European vacation and weirdly hard to find here this one nails the brief.