Rosengarten is the filet of the Lenchen: a tiny parcel of low-lying ground between the Rhine and the Spreitzer family’s own front door, on calcareous loam and shell limestone. That combination gives fruit with unusual generosity, and Andreas and Bernd handle it accordingly, fermenting in old wooden fuder that adds texture without ever adding flavor. This is their Grosses Gewachs, Germany’s grand cru designation for dry wine, and it is the richest, roundest Riesling they make while still holding a straight line of acidity through the middle. It needs a couple of years to stop flexing and start singing. Buy two, drink one early, and see what patience does to the other.