The wine that rivals top white Burgundy from one of Rheinhessen’s hallowed sites. The Groebe family has farmed Westhofen since the 13th century, and Fritz Groebe now works it organically, with spontaneous fermentation and thoughtful elevage in neutral oak and steel. Kirchspiel is a Grosses Gewachs grand cru, the estate’s most profound dry Riesling, all depth, tension and chalky precision. Fritz is close friends with Klaus-Peter Keller, who recommends Groebe as a producer to watch, and this bottling shows exactly why. Give it time; it will reward years in the cellar.