Crystalline Rheinhessen Riesling from a family that has farmed Westhofen since the 13th century. Fritz Groebe has lifted the estate to new heights with organic farming, spontaneous fermentation and elevage in neutral oak and steel, capturing that Rheinhessen paradox of generous fruit framed by chalky precision. He is close friends with Klaus-Peter Keller, who flags Groebe as a producer to watch, a thrilling and more accessible window into the same hallowed terroir. This dry village Riesling is taut, mineral, pure refreshment in a glass.