There are two or three names that define what Chablis is supposed to taste like, and Vincent Dauvissat is at the top of the list. He farms naturally, picks by hand, and ages everything in old barrels that lend texture rather than flavor, which is why his wines taste like the limestone they came from and nothing else. Even his village Chablis, the entry point to the domaine, carries the family stamp: chiseled, saline, and quietly powerful. The 2020s are generous by Chablis standards, which makes this an unusually welcoming introduction to a producer who rarely makes anything easy to find. If it’s on the shelf, it won’t be for long.