Justin Willett’s appellation-wide Chardonnay is a kind of greatest-hits compilation of Santa Barbara’s best Chardonnay vineyards fruit from Bien Nacido, Dierberg, La Rinconada, and Sanford & Benedict, each contributing a different signature. He raises it in French oak with very little new wood, and the wine is the polar opposite of buttery, oaky California Chardonnay: pure, taut, and built around acid and minerality. This is the antithesis of creamy, buttery Chardonnay, and an outstanding introduction to Tyler’s house style.