Meeresboden means ocean floor, and it isn’t a metaphor. The sites Graham Tatomer blends here sit on sand, diatomaceous earth, and loam, the fossilized leftovers of a seabed, a few miles from a very cold Pacific. That geology shows up in the glass as a salty, kelp-like minerality running underneath the stone fruit and yellow citrus. Native-yeast fermentation, mostly stainless with a little acacia wood, malolactic blocked to keep the acidity intact. Young it is bright and racy; with a few years it turns silky and honeyed. It is, plainly, some of the best Gruner Veltliner made outside Austria.