The half bottle is an underrated format: two good glasses, no commitment, no flat Champagne going sad in the fridge door. This is Taittinger’s house wine, and its house style is Chardonnay-forward at roughly 40% of the blend, unusually high for a big-house non-vintage, with Pinot Noir and Meunier filling in the middle. It spends close to four years on its lees in the chalk cellars beneath Reims, far past the legal minimum, which is where the texture and the fine bead come from. Bright, lifted, easy to love. Keep a few cold for the Tuesdays that deserve better.