Stephane Ogier made his name in Cote-Rotie, where Syrah clings to absurdly steep slopes and every parcel gets treated like a jewel. “Le Temps est Venu” translates as “the time has come,” and it is what happens when he carries that Northern Rhone precision south. The white is built on Grenache Blanc with Roussanne and a little Viognier, grown on limestone-rich soils, picked early and raised in tank so nothing blurs the line. Southern Rhone whites have a habit of turning broad and heavy; this one stays lifted, with citrus, white peach and a saline snap on the finish. It is the rare southern white that drinks like it has somewhere to be.