Cloudy, unfiltered, refermented in the bottle and left sitting on its lees: this is farmhouse fizz, the way northeastern Italy drank sparkling wine long before Prosecco became a global brand. Specogna is a benchmark family estate in Friuli’s Colli Orientali, started in 1963 when Leonardo Specogna came home from working abroad and bought a plot in the hills of Rocca Bernarda. They farm organically and intervene as little as possible, and Pro Fondo is their col fondo Glera: dry, savory and a little rustic in the best sense. Roll the bottle gently to stir the sediment, or pour it clear and let the last glass go murky. Either way it belongs on a table, not in a toast.