The liter bottle is Austria’s great gift to weeknight drinking, and this is one of the best ones going. The Setzers have farmed Hohenwarth since 1705, on vineyards that sit on an ancient seabed shoved skyward by tectonics, 400 meters up, in sandy soils shot through with chalky limestone. Hans and Ulli dry-farm, plant their vines at nearly three times the density typical for the region, and ferment spontaneously in steel. What comes out is Grner as it should be: peppery, citrusy, bone-dry and absurdly refreshing, with a salty limestone snap that keeps you pouring. The extra 250ml disappears faster than you’d think.