When Thomas Haag took over Schloss Lieser in 1992, the castle estate was essentially a shell six hectares and a faded name. He and Ute rebuilt it into one of the Mosel’s essential addresses, then bought the property outright in 1997. The Brauneberger Juffer is one of the river’s great steep slate amphitheaters, and Kabinett is the format that shows it most transparently: picked light, fermented with wild yeast, bottled without fining or filtering. Featherweight in body, electric in acid, with just enough natural sweetness to make the whole thing hum. Riesling doesn’t get more refreshing than this, and very few wines this delicate live this long.