Spear Vineyard is one of the most talked-about young sites in the Sta. Rita Hills – planted in 2014, farmed organically by Ofer Shepher, climbing steep north-facing slopes along Highway 246 with marine clay, sand, and chert in the soil. Sam Smith – the former Morgan winemaker turned micro-negociant – treats the fruit with restraint, fermenting on native yeast in tank with partial malolactic, then aging in a mix of new and neutral oak plus stainless. The result is Chardonnay with cut and tension: brioche and almond skin on top, gunflint and Meyer lemon underneath, all wrapped in electric acid.