Fum Blanc is not a grape. It is a marketing move that worked. In 1968 Robert Mondavi looked at California Sauvignon Blanc mostly sweet and forgettable at the time made a dry, barrel-aged version inspired by Pouilly-Fum in the Loire, and gave it a new name. The name stuck, and so did the wine. This is the Reserve, from To Kalon in Oakville, arguably the most famous piece of ground in Napa: hand-harvested Sauvignon Blanc with a bit of Smillon, whole-cluster pressed and aged ten months on the lees in French oak. The 2023 growing season was one of the longest in a decade, and that shows up as freshness and detail rather than weight. It also has the structure to sit in a cellar for a few years, which is not a sentence you often get to write about Sauvignon Blanc.