Podere Sassi is a small organic farm run by Leonardo and Adriana, tucked into the hills of Lazio at the western edge of the Sabine mountains, near the Umbrian border. Three hectares of indigenous vines at altitude, hands-off winemaking, real conviction. This Casamia Bianco is 100% Trebbiano the most maligned grape in central Italy given a brief skin maceration and aged in concrete to coax out everything the variety can do when it’s farmed properly and left alone. The result is a textured, gently amber-tinged white with character to spare. Trebbiano taken seriously, which doesn’t happen often enough.