Cross the Minho river south from Spain’s Ras Baixas and Albario becomes Alvarinho, the same grape with a different passport, and in Mono and Melgao it finds arguably its finest address. The vines grow in granite and schist, far enough inland to ripen properly while cool nights keep the wine electric. Nortico skips the injected CO2 that gives so much of the region’s white wine its spritzy fizz, and what’s left is a fuller, more serious bottle with real granitic minerality running straight down the middle. Crisp, distinctive, and dangerously drinkable on a warm afternoon. It over-delivers so thoroughly it feels like an accounting error nobody has caught yet.