The man farming some of the steepest rows in Saint-Peray used to fix cars for a living. Mickael Bourg came to wine with no family estate behind him, apprenticed with Matthieu Barret in Cornas, and started making his own in 2006. He has since cobbled together roughly two hectares of granite and limestone terraces across Cornas and Saint-Peray, some of it so vertical that he ropes himself to the hillside to pick. This is all Marsanne, farmed organically, fermented with native yeasts, and made in quantities small enough that he still does essentially everything himself. The result is a white with real presence and a mineral spine, which is exactly what Saint-Peray should be and too rarely is.