En Montceau is one of Saint-Aubin’s most distinctive 1er Crus – a southwest-facing hillside where the topsoil runs just 30 centimeters deep over hard limestone. Damien Colin works three parcels here from vines of 30, 40, and 50 years old, and the wine consistently delivers a kind of saline, cut-glass precision that is hard to find elsewhere in the village. 2021’s cooler growing season was tailor-made for this site: the wine is tight-knit and chalky, with white flowers and orchard fruit framed by a long, penetrating finish. Drinks beautifully young; ages gracefully for a decade.