The name translates to unlimited schist, which is less a poetic flourish than a thesis statement. Luis Seabra left a high-profile winemaking post to chase terroir on his own terms, and he has become one of the most convincing voices in Portugal precisely because he refuses to make the kind of polished, commercial wine the country is known for. The Branco is a Douro field blend of Rabigato, Gouveio, Codega and Viosinho, grown on the schist that gives the wine its name and its spine. Where so much white Douro is heavy, this one is taut, saline and mineral-driven, with a clarity that makes it feel almost weightless. It’s a serious wine that doesn’t ask you to be serious about it.