Dominique Lafon, the renowned Meursault winemaker, founded Les Heritiers du Comte Lafon in 1999 to show what the Maconnais could do, farming biodynamically and bottling world-class Chardonnay at fair prices. Saint-Veran is a step up from village Macon, a proper appellation that gives a richer, more substantial white. In Lafon’s hands it stays precise and energetic rather than heavy, with real depth for the money. Drink now or hold a few years.