Here’s a fun one: a white wine made from a red grape. Kareen, the Nemet family’s low-intervention project in Lodi, presses Sierra Foothills (Amador County) Barbera straight off its skins to make this Bianco, so you get the bright acidity and energy of the variety without any of the color. Whole-cluster pressed and fermented with native yeasts from sustainably farmed Sierra Foothills fruit, it’s the kind of curiosity that rewards an open mind. Crisp, textural, and a little off the beaten path.